Gentle Shore Break
Well it has been a fantastic stay on Maui for the last 4 days. I've decided to leave early (today) because I miss my wife and kids but part of me feels like I could stay forever - a very small part. Dana Point is a pretty great place to return to.
I took a 5 mile run this morning which was mostly a repeat of my run yesterday except I cut through the golf course at the end.
The swell has definitely come down quite a bit overnight. While the previous couple of nights I could hear the waves breaking clearly, last night I could still hear surf but it was much more subdued.
I have just a little down time before needing to head to the airport so the obvious way to pass the time is to take a swim in the ocean.
I head to the nearest beach which is just a 5 minute walk from our condo at Oneloa Bay.
This beach has a decent shore break and lacks the outer reef protection of Kapalua where I have enjoyed taking longer swims. However I don't have a lot of time and I have not swum here yet on this trip. There is just enough size here for the breaks to be fun. The larger sets are 5 to 6 feet but these waves break very gently.
The shallow area here is a mix of sand and soft mossy rock. As I make my way through the inner breaks, I am just inches, and sometimes less, from the bottom. I shimmy my way through and eventually the water gets deeper and the waves get a little bigger.
I dive under this outer set wave by wave. It feels great. The water is warm and its super clear. Once I am past the surf, I feel like I am in a pool with the light reflecting off the surface of the water and onto the ocean floor like it does in an outdoor pool on a sunny day.
This beach faces north and I head east toward the rocky point that borders its eastern edge. There is decent surf breaking just off the point so I don't let myself get too close.
I turn around and head west and also aim myself closer to shore. I feel just a little further out than I want to be. I'm unfamiliar with these waters and have noticed that currents can be a bit stronger than they are at home. If I get caught by an outside set, it's really not a big deal today. In fact, I would love to get some pictures of these playful waves.
The beach here does not have a point that borders the west end. The beach just comes to an end and becomes rock and lava. Then further down this rock and lava edge there is a western point but you definitely do not want to get caught inshore in that section so I only swim as far west as I can see a sandy shore.
Here there is a break and I just hang out here for a while taking pictures of the breaking waves. It's a good time.
Eventually I figure it's time to make my way back to shore and get ready for my flight.