I’m Still Alive

Well today’s swim almost didn’t happen. There is a SSW swell peaking today and the forecast called for 4-6+ surf. 4-6 is kind of big but it’s the “+” that concerns me and the actual report does not come out until just about the time I need to leave for the beach on a Sunday. The idea of swimming through 8 foot surf on a lonely beach early in the morning just doesn’t appeal to me.

So I decide to run to the gym for some elliptical. I get to the gym and check the surf report. It’s reporting 4-5’. No Problem! I can just run back home and have plenty of time to get to the beach and be done in time for church. So I get back home and head out at about 7:30. The skies are cloudy.

Driving by Doheny I notice that the ocean surface looks much more smooth than yesterday but surf does look to be up. I get to the Strand parking lot and I would not call the ocean surface glassy but it didn’t look to have any chop. As I am heading towards the stairs, a guy walks past me and says “Good Morning, some pretty big surf out there.” He didn’t say it like, “Hey buddy! Surf is up. Cowabunga dude!” It was more like, “you really think it’s a good idea to be heading out in that with no fins and nothing to hang on to?” Now maybe he is from Iowa and thinks anything over waist high is worthy of extra caution. He didn’t look like he was from Iowa but I could also be projecting my own paranoia into his vocal inflections. That’s one of my special skills.

Anyway I think I just nod and smile and continue down the stairs. I don’t see any lines moving over the ocean that looks particularly ominous, but the volume does get louder than normal as I get to the ramp that leads down to the sand.

Well just as I hit the beach, a big set comes in. I mean this is NOT 4-5 feet. I see a surfer taking off on a face that is nearly double overhead. I am reminded that this is the exact scenario I was hoping to avoid when I tentatively decided to skip the swim.

I mentioned last week how waves were breaking right on shore. It was high tide and there were a couple of head high waves that came right to the shore’s edge. I’m seriously considering going back but the thought of retreating back to the car without a swim really bums me out.

The other thing worth noting here is the water is super warm - I would say 68-69. It’s noticeably warmer than yesterday which was a bit warmer than Friday. Thursday night’s water temperature forecast called for a drop in temps last night due to onshore winds. However the winds were more southerly and thus the warmer water.

Well I stand at my usual launching spot and wait for the set to pass. Things calm down and I just decide to do it. It was a perfect window. I jumped in and didn’t have to dodge a single breaking wave on my way out.

Once past the surf line, I am of course thinking “what have I done?” What swims out to sea must eventually swim back to shore. So I’m obsessing over that swim throughout the entire hour’s workout.

This becomes a fairly good exercise in trying to relax. The absolute best thing for me to do if I do get caught in a set is to relax. Worrying is not going to make this swell subside but I don’t let logic stop me. I’m a rock star worrier. That said I am conscious of an effort to relax and it is a good exercise.

When I get to the south end I can see large waves breaking out on the far rocks. All along the swim I can feel the energy of the waves pass over me about every 10 minutes delivering what I imagine is probably some good sized waves. I took very few pictures today. My mind was set on finishing up the swim and getting to shore alive.

As I pass by the red lifeguard buoy just before my northern turnaround point, I wonder how long I can hang out there and wait out this swell. I mean the water is warm. Lets just hang on and make ourselves comfortable. Nope. Not a sensible idea.

The time comes and I am in front of the house that is my key “swim back to shore” landmark. So I head in. Eventually the shore is looking pretty darn close. Waves are starting to break on either side of me and they don’t look too huge and I am just so very close. I feel the sand and make a run for the rocks.

I did it!

As I walk back I am exhilarated, the day is beautiful and these waves don’t look anything like that set before I started.