Now That’s a Wave

Well Hillary came and went and Dana Point was left pretty much unscathed, thankfully. In retrospect I’m sure I could have swam Sunday morning, but as a father and husband with mouths to feed it just seems unwise to be heading into the ocean during the first tropical storm to hit the state in a century. In the end, South OC didn’t see much surf but the Wedge in Newport was getting 8-12 foot waves that were fun to watch online.

I’ve given the water a couple days to clean itself up from the runoff but I just can’t wait another day. It’s been beautiful all morning today and I was out the door just a little after 10:00.

The main thing I’m wondering about is water temperature. Hillary blew out OC and San Diego with a bunch of north wind. Parts of San Diego near the border were reporting in the high 50’s Monday morning and Dana Point was low 60s. It’s one of those rare occasions where the water in San Diego is actually colder than Santa Barbara. This morning Surfline says we are at 65 here. I can totally thrive in 65 but with Surfline there is always a bit of give and take between the reported number and the actual temperature of the water.

I have to stop myself here and wonder for a guy who swims in 57 degree water over several months, am I not over thinking these variations of low 60’s? The short answer is “yes.” Yes I am overthinking this. It’s what I do.

When I get to the parking lot, the ocean surface looks a little lumpy but generally non-turbulent. The sky is blue and the air is warm. What’s not to like?

I get to the beach and the tide looks mid to highish. It also looks like there is just a bit more debris here at the tide line than usual. Nothing terrible but I don’t usually see so many branches and leaves. It’s like a yard waste barge lost a load.

I start to walk out just as a set of waves is coming in. It’s small stuff but I wait to let it pass. Then another set comes in right after with a much bigger wave. I think to myself “now that’s a wave.” It’s not huge but it may be the biggest wave I have seen here in months. It was just that one that was noteworthy. It passes and with it’s head high white water I am now completely wet. I’m also delightfully more comfortable than I anticipated.

I take the plunge and make my way out. Yup. This water isn’t bad at all. It pretty much feels as good as I left it on Saturday. I’d say that 65 is fairly spot on if not lower than what it actually is.

I’m swimming south and it is just so nice. As I get to the southern end of the beach, I begin to see some cloud accumulation just over the bluff but not enough to spoil the vibe.

I reach the end and there are some waves actually breaking way out here on the rocks just 20 feet southwest of me. I pause to look around and then start swimming north.

I see a little debris here and there that I don’t usually see in the ocean. More yard waste type of material like palm fronds. I wonder if this is just local debris from up the street or is it from Mexico? I’ll place my bet on the local.

I see a large school of Corbina fish and swim through them. As I continue north, the water feels like it is getting more active. This makes sense since the wind is supposed to be picking up about now. Still, it’s not bad. I pause and look around and everything just looks lovely.

When I get to the north end of the swim. I see what I think is another larger set of waves break at the shore because of the height that the white water bounces up. I’m hoping to see some of these waves when I make my way in. They are not so big that they are scary. Just big enough to look fun and interesting.

I head back and when I near the shore I wait around a bit for a larger set. It never comes and I don’t have all day. It seems like it would be awkward to explain to your coworkers that the reason you didn’t get any work done was because you were waiting for one of those larger waves.

As I walk up the stairs, I’m noticing that the cloud cover is definitely increasing and as I write this it looks like there is some low clouds or fog hanging around near the web cams. I’d say I made it in during the perfect window of opportunity.